An Introduction to Flours

This is a rough guide to the various uses and advantages of a variety of flours available, including wheat and gluten-free options. It is not a list of alternatives. I encourage you, dear reader, to instead explore the many types and uses of all baking ingredients available to you. On the one hand, wheat and gluten are impossible for those with celiac disease, however, even for someone with such an intolerance should nonetheless view his/her flour as not an alternative to wheat but as simply another ingredient with its own nuances and cultures. To do so will improve your finished product--and your attitude--tenfold.There is a method to my mad arrangement of this list! I have organized it from most accessible/digestible to most commonly viewed as ‘problematic’; however I consider the mid-range flours (soya and nut flours primarily) to be in fact the most problematic, both in consistency and allergenic properties and have separated them out for this reason.

Weeds, Grasses, Légumes--Oh My!

Rice flours Moderately grainy. White rice flour, is slightly sweet, and is put through a more rigid refinement process making it light in texture. Brown rice flour is thicker, less sweet/refined (generally use ⅓ of a cup less of brown rice flour than the more refined white rice flour). Both are quite low in protein (white rice flour contains roughly a gram and a half more than brown) required to bind the ingredients together, thus added starch and emulsifying agents are required. A rich source of copper, the bitter taste of these flours can make an excellent sourdough bread, or can add a dynamic cut to the sweetness of cakes. However, it should still be used in partnership with other flours to cut its grainy texture.
Requires xanthan/guar gum, as well as starch to make up for the lack of ‘gluten’ (protein). 

Quinoa flour Quinoa (‘keen-wah’) is a native to Latin American regions, especially Peru. In both the spinach and tumbleweed families, it is a diverse, easy to grow, highly nutritious plant--it is both a whole fibre source and also a complete protein. Nearly replaced by maize, it has enjoyed a recent revival due to fair-trade farming initiatives and alternative diets. A rich, creamy flour is derived from the seeds of the plant, rich in minerals and vitamins, including Vitamins B & E (important for mood stabilizing). It has very little binding power, however, so must be used in combination (15% quinoa flour only) and with starch/emulsifiers. If your dough contains more than 10% cooked, mashed quinoa seeds (as opposed to flour, which allows for greater moisture retention and draws out the mild nutty flavour of the seed) your dough will be far too heavy. The stickiness of such a dough, is not necessarily unwanted--consider French pastries, such as croissants, which require elasticity.

Amaranth flour (Chinese/African/Indian spinach, elephant’s ear) Made from seeds milled from a genus of herbs (though also known as a vegetable plant and a weed) it is one of the mildest, most highly tolerated (aka digestible) of flours. Amaranth is second only to teff in its content of nutrients, particularly calcium and is highest in iron (contains more than spinach) and fibre. It is also unique in that is highly emulsifying, absorbing water well (due to a somewhat higher protein content)--if used exclusively, baked goods will become too heavy and dense (a crumb that will look gluey). This is not always negative, consider certain baked goods that require strong elasticity (Danish pastries as opposed to breads). Simply know what is required of your dough. For instance, its emulsifying properties make it unappealing for a muffin, however ideal for roux, soup and stew bases.

Teff (Ethiopian Millet, loveloss) From the grass family (specifically, lovegrass, native to Northern Ethiopia) teff is high in dietary fibre, iron, protein and calcium. Its high protein content require less flour finagling than others, due to its high protein content and gluten-like characteristics. Lacking the key a-gliadin-fraction that causes celiac disease, it is an ideal flour. Its small seed has been known to produce a molasses-esque sweetness, with earthy tones, but when fermented these taste transform into a sourness ideal for sourdough breads (such as Ethiopia’s fermented teff flat bread, injera). Teff will happily exist as 50% of your flour mixture, quietly amping the nutritional value and dynamism of your baked good. In the coming years, expect to hear a lot more about this lovely “lost” grain.

Oat flour Made from ground oats, this is a thick, absorbing flour high in fibre (similar to whole wheat flour, it is mealy and requires roughly double the liquid of its lighter counterparts) but offers a rich, hearty taste and texture. Since it lacks protein, it cannot be used exclusively (as it would produce dry, crumbly baked goods). If celiac, care should be taken to ensure no contamination with wheat/gluten products during the milling process. It is important to note that oat flour can go rancid quite easily (as oats in general do) but can be kept in the freezer to extend shelf life.

Buckwheat flour (Kasha, saracen corn) Related to rhubarb, it has little to do with wheat, other than being a bitter, nutty alternative. While some find the taste overpowering, even “pungent”, it is in fact ideal for savoury dishes, such as crêpes, or hearty gluten-free muffins and crackers. It has a similar absorbency to rice but has little binding power--meaning, if used correctly, it can offer a lightness to your dish (such as the case in pancakes, a traditional Russian use, which they call ‘blini’). It is next to amaranth in nutritional flours, boasting a wide range of minerals, including rutin, which has been proven to prevent heart disease, lysine and calcium. If you are used to the flavour or are making a dish which pairs nicely with a strong flavour (look to some hearty Eastern European recipes) then you need not limit buckwheat to a mere 10% of your dry ingredients. Bear in mind, it nonetheless requires other ingredients for active binding of your mixture.

Chickpea Flour Also known as gram flour (derived from another légume, black gram, not to be confused with graham wheat flour) this flour is milled from chickpeas/garbanzo beans, offering a high protein and strong fibre content. It therefore boasts a firming, binding effect on your cake batters, and provides solid emulsifying to flaky-light starches while uncompromising the lightness of the batter. However, it is a bean--many find that using more than a small 10% in the overall flour mix allows the bean-taste to push through, creating an unpleasant pasty-mouthed chewy texture that has become a stereotypical staple of gluten-free baking.

Nuts to GMOs and Corn!

Almond meal/flour An easy do-it-yourself flour, and a favourite grain-substitute among my favourite gluten-free bakers, almond meal has proven a lovely addition in baked goods that can be amplified by a sweet nuttiness. It plays especially well with sweet rice flour. While it doesn’t have much to offer in the way of binding, it boosts protein and fat, giving your starches something to really sink into without creating a whole-wheat-dry effect. Almonds however are low in lysine, a compound known to decrease the instance of cold-sores--in fact many people comment that almonds can in fact aggravate cold sores. But if you are herpes-free and need not keep a nut-free house other than your nutty loved ones, almond meal offers a beautiful consistency and flavour--mealy and smooth all once--that will bump the taste a notch.

Chestnut Flour (Primarily Italian in source) Milled from dried, roasted sweet chestnuts, this flour boasts Vitamins B (1 and 2) and C. A nut flour, it obviously contains a nutty flavour, however has a grainy, “pasty” mouth-feel consistency, which is not appealing to most. However, it has a naturally sweet flavour, which can lessen the amount of sugar required for your recipe (however, be sure to modify the ingredients to make up for the lack). It is not quite as absorbent as flours such as rice, so less liquid is also required when using this flour, however it should only be used in combination, at roughly 10% of your dry ingredients.

Soya flour Derived from de-hulled soy beans, it is sometimes heat-treated or raw. If not cooked properly, however, soybeans can become indigestible. While it has a good fat/protein content its carbohydrate content is quite weak, thus it is a more likely egg substitute than flour sub and will damage the structure of the baked good if overused (no more than 5% of dry content). It does not provide much in the way of flavour, and does not make a useful primary flour source. Like many nutty/mealy flours, it can go rancid if not stored properly--ensure it is kept in a dark, cool location. Add to this the questionable genetic modification of soybean plants for widespread commercial use and you have the formula for a subpar flour.

Lupin Boasting incredibly high protein content (double that of chickpea, double and a half that of amaranth) it is derived from the seeds of the sweet lupin plant, offering antioxidants and omegas. While it acts similarly to soybean flour, it is GMO-free. However, as many as 86% of patients suffering peanut allergies, also react to lupin. If not allergic to nuts, it is an excellent nutritional source--contributing a small 5% to your overall dry mix, lupin will double the nutritional value of your finished product.

Cornstarch/Cornmeal Made from the endosperms of corn kernels, corn starch is a highly refined, incredibly white starch, which boasts considerable absorption and binding power but without offering any nutritional value. Cornmeal, made from the whole kernel of dried corn, is much coarser, offering a dynamic texture without being too mealy (like certain nut flours) yet can still be bitter due to over-oxidation (meaning, it goes stale rapidly). While more nutritious, cornmeal offers no added functional property other texture. While I do enjoy a delicious cornmeal muffin doused in honey, I must admit there is no benefit to such a snack--indeed it hinders most individuals’ digestive systems. For the grainy texture, refer to brown rice flour; while tapioca and potato are more attractive alternatives to empty cornstarch.

Millet (Bajoa, jowar) Similar to sorghum, millet has a highly bland flavour (which can be ideal in the world of pungent flours) and consistency, which is why many favour it for flatbreads where no other flours are required and flavour is added through toppings. However, millet is highly prone to rancidity, giving it a bitter taste and creating digestive difficulties.

Sorghum Often referred to as Indian Millet, sorghum is milled from a weed to produce a thick mealy flour used in flat/unleavened breads. Its nutritional levels are extensive, however do not translate through the milling and cooking processing, leaving key vitamins and minerals indigestible. This grain is the least ideal for those suffering digestive difficulties--if your body is still recovering from the effects of years of unknown allergens, whether to dairy, wheat, gluten, or soy, it seems ridiculous to ingest a grain with less nutritional properties and with greater GI complicatedness than the notorious corn. Its thick mealiness also limits the potential of your baked good (if you’ve made a puck, try taking out the sorghum and replacing it with oat flour).

Starch!

Let’s begin with first posing the question, what does starch actually offer? Starch thickens, stiffens and glues your dough, while offering a richer carbohydrate content. This is why your grandmother’s cake recipe contains cornstarch--it takes the delicate (and likely for her time, hard-to-come-by) ingredients and boosts them without having them fall apart. Starch is also helpful when it comes to keeping a variety of flours or liquids together, making it useful in everything from gluten-free baking to creating a thick stew stock.

Arrowroot flour Derived from a root, it acts more as a starch and thus as a thickening agent, boosting lighter flours such as amaranth. It is highly digestible and can be used in larger quantities, making it an ideal starch for gluten-free baking.

Tapioca flour/starch (Cassava) Made by heating the cassava root and drying the granules (tapioca) which are then ground into flour. Already low in nutrients, this process further reduces the nutrients. If overused, its flavour and texture become dusty and mercurial.

Potato flour vs. Potato starch Potato flour has a very strong flavour of potatoes as it is made from dried, ground potatoes. It has a very poor shelf-life and is very thick. Potato starch/farina is a more refined derivative, giving it a much lengthier shelf-life and weaker potato flavour. Potato starch adds tenacity and improves moisture retention of baked goods. Can be gummy or soggy if overused. The starch/sugar content of potatoes difficult to digest for those with insulin imbalances, so be aware of the types of starches and their sugar content.

Baker's Happy Helper (Or Mom's Healthy--Sneaky--Friend)

Many believe that if you're following a gluten-free diet you're missing out on important nutrients, from calcium to protein--an equal, if not, increasing number, believe that being gluten-free makes you healthier. A cookie, is a cookie, is a cookie, I say! Wheat can be just as overpowering and strange as chickpea flour, has the potential to be just as destructive as tapioca, or just as overbearing as oat, but it can also be as feel-good as amaranth. This is the point, isn't it, to feel good? But if you're not feeling quite good about pancakes that offer a tiny amount of fibre and not much else, try adding a bit of these "flour"-like power powders to give a nutritious boost to your baking. Hemp powder offers protein, a huge burst of iron, along with omega fatty acids; chia seed powder provides magnesium and calcium, while being a great fibre source; flax meal offers fibre and is a great source of omegas; macca is a powerful, mineral-rich anti-oxidant (while light macca has the added benefit of stabilizing hormones). Add any of these to any of your flours and you will be boosting the nutrition of the finished product ten-fold. Be aware of water solubility and potential heat sensitivities, and be sure to increase the liquid in your recipe (generally 1.5 tablespoons more of liquid per 1 tablespoon of boost).   

Ancient Grains

Barley flour While not fully gluten-free, this wheat-alternative, is a hearty, somewhat nutty substitute. It is best used in breads (where simple leavening agents bind the molecules) but if used in other baking requires other flours and starches to create a lighter product--otherwise, you will end up with the usual catastrophe of an all-too crumbly, chewy, dry baked good.

Kamut flour An ancient grain, it is not fully gluten-free, but remains ideal for those with gluten sensitivities, or as a means to simply reduce wheat/gluten consumption and boost variety. It is slightly grainier in texture than flour (similar to cornmeal) and can be substituted equally for all-purpose (1 cup for 1 cup).

Spelt flour A hearty ancient grain, like kamut, it is not gluten-free, but is a hearty low-gluten substitute--it acts similarly to whole-wheat so substituting 1 for 1 will not yield best results (both more liquid and less flour are required).

Wheat germ and wheat bran* Separate from the husk, or chaff, both wheat germ and wheat bran are integral parts of wheat grain and are part of the reproductive function of the plant. They contribute significantly to the nutrient level of the grain, providing significant levels of dietary fibre. Bran is typically heat-treated to increase its longevity as it is prone to rapid rancidity. Wheat Germ, closer to the endosperm, provides similar levels of dietary fibre without the harshness of the inner layer of the wheat husk, but is generally removed to decrease fibre and brown-ness of white flour. This is done primarily for the bleaching process, but has the added benefit of assisting those with difficulty ingesting large quantities of fibre. Germ is also prone to rancidity--it is should be air-sealed, out of direct light, and kept in the freezer.

*Bran may also come from rice, maize, oats, barley, and millet, enabling those with wheat sensitivities to obtain hearty dietary fibre from healthy alternative, natural sources.
Graham flour Named after Presbyterian minister, Sylvester Graham, who believed that the milling/bleaching processes of early Industrialism were harmful to the human digestive system--his signature flour uses the whole grain of wheat kernels, however the process separates the endosperm for finer grinding (allowing easier digestion of the toughest part of the grain) before it is recombined with the germ and bran.

In other words, get to know your digestive system; talk to a nutritionist, your doctor, as well as holistic practitioners to find what suits you best. What you think is a sensitivity to wheat could in fact be related to the types of fibre you ingest, in which case unbleached white flour and water-soluble fibre may prove easier on your digestive system. Or all forms gluten may be at the root of the problem. While experimenting certainly helps, simply by creating more diversity in your diet, your intuitions will be strengthened, supported, and calmed by seeking a combination of professional and responsible care.

Read more about the flours mentioned, as well as rye, triticale, white and whole wheat flours at:
Aside from the obvious Wikipedia, one of my most valuable resources is The Cook’s Thesaurus, which offers an extensive list of grains, dairies, etc. and conversion scales. It is a vital resource for the home-cook who wants to learn more.
Or search Bobs Red Mill flours for brand descriptions, quality assurances/draw-backs, and for a list of ideal quantities (which I likely regularly break in my recipes).
http://www.wheat-free.org/wheat-free-flour.html offers a very basic run-down of various gluten-free flours.
Also, check out Andrew Whitley’s book (and website) “Bread Matters: the state of modern bread and a definitive guide to baking your own” (Andrews McMeel Publishing LLC, 2006 and 2009) for an extensive chart on the uses and nutritional properties of some of the flours mentioned above (and for some amazing bread recipes, including gluten-free).